Suspension for stance and fitment

Anytime I get asked about wheel fitment, I usually respond immediately with two questions. What type of car do you have? and what suspension are you running?

I have to start this off by saying this article is very biased. I like my cars to sit a certain way (typically with rake, unless it’s looks better flat). I also like my wheels to fit a certain way (flush at a minimum, poke preferred). Lastly, I like my cars slammed like how Hulk Hogan did Andre the Giant (Hence OnTheLow).  Those who are into performance driving,  sorry to say, this may not be the article for you. Everyone else, you might disagree with some or all of it.  Throughout my time talking to people about wheel fitment, I figured it would be best to share some of my thoughts on a big piece of the puzzle when it comes to stance and wheels – your lowering options.

Whenever I buy a new car, the first thing I do is drop it. When I was younger, all it was about was having a slammed car that was clean…and not much has changed for me.

Lowering Springs – To me, the biggest thing is adjustability. Most of the springs today don’t sit right IMO. If you don’t like the way springs end up sitting, you’re stuck until you change. A lot of the springs won’t allow you to slam your car low enough either. If you put on a body/lip kit and end up being to low, nothing you can do about it. If you put on aggressive wheels and the tires rub, regardless of how much pull you have, there’s nothing you can do that either.

If you’re building your car with any of the above mentioned things in mind, it’s a no go.

Coilovers – This is pretty much a must.  I dont want to get into this obvious shit, but I’ll cover some of the important things.  Threaded strut tubes are awesome. Not only for ride quality, but to dial in extra low if you need it. Camber plates are great if they’re included, it’ll save you some extra expense while allowing you to dial in fitment. Kits that come with adjustable end links will also save you some money. Try to say away from those with adjustment end link mounts – they never really work as planned, although I have seen some solid ones (though, I have no first or second hand experience with them). Also, stay away from the cheap stuff. I took the plunge and got some cheaper coilovers for the first time and I totally regret it. Sure it was able to be totally slammed, but it rode like shit and the end links ended up breaking. Don’t do it. Spend the time and money, and do it right. Sometimes you can skimp on certain things, but don’t do it here. With that being said, there’s no real need for $3500baller ass, track suspension either (i mean unless you got it like that). Find the best bang for you buck, look at all options, read reviews and I guarantee you’ll be a happy camper.

Air suspension – There is long standing debate between coilover guys and air ride guys. Some people will never go air. Some people swear by it. Some people want to be apart of the cool crowd. Some says bags are for ____, you can fill in the rest. Regardless of which side you choose, there’s no denying the fact that instant clearance, and instant dump are awesome. There’s a lot of shit talk to those who “park hard” but I say fuck it. I’m over my go fast on the street days. If I wanted to track, I’ll build a track car. If I want to go fast, I’ll jump on a bike….I’m just saying. Anyways, some thought for who want instant adjustability.  DO A LOT OF RESEARCH. Bags are intimidating, but once you figure it out, they are fairly simple to understand. Some tips  – 1/4″ valves kick ass. It’s just baller… I mean unless you like the fast up and down (that’s what she said). If you’re building your kit, make a diagram of your system and where you want everything. I had to buy multiple fittings that were either straight or had 90 degree bends. Map it out once, save yourself the trouble.  Stay away from no name compressors. Check reviews and make sure the compressors are solid. I’ve heard of failures with some compressors and if you can only budget for one, get a good VIAIR. Three gallon tanks are small. I have a three gallon, and I want a five. Not only is it more capacity, but it has more ports for other stuff like air tools etc. More fittings = More chances for leaks. It’s also good to have extra parts – bags, line, valves etc. just in case anything goes wrong. Now, if you’re buying a pre-made kit, you shouldn’t really have to worry about most of this stuff. Most of the kits are pretty solid, just make sure you get one that is designed to get LOW. I’d hate to see anyone spending money expecting to be super slammed only to end up higher then where they want to be. Also, a lot of guys are scared of leaks, popping bags, holes in lines etc., and while they are valid, you can avoid a lot of problems if you’re smart about it. Basically, do your research and don’t get be so worried about it. Do a solid, quality install – then double check the install work a week later and dial out all the leaks. Bam! Parking lot pimping.

****I have no idea about hydraulics, but I’ve seen/read some posts online about guys running them. Check out the benz forums, as there are a couple guys running them there

Good day ‘mate.